Once known primarily for its Y2K-era denim dominance, Diesel has undergone a dramatic transformation in recent years—one that’s re-established the brand as a cultural force and runway leader. With Belgian designer Glenn Martens at the creative helm, Diesel has managed to strike a rare balance: edgy and wearable, nostalgic yet forward-thinking. And fashion insiders have taken notice.
A New Creative Direction
The turning point came in late 2020, when Martens—best known for his architectural work at Y/Project—was named Diesel’s new artistic director. His arrival marked the beginning of a bold new chapter. Under his direction, the brand has leaned into sculptural denim silhouettes, unconventional styling, and a raw, rebellious energy that feels distinctly of the moment. The early collections were met with growing excitement, but it’s in 2024 and 2025 that Diesel has truly hit its stride.
Runway Moments That Hit Hard
At Milan Fashion Week, Diesel shows have become some of the most talked-about events on the calendar. The Autumn/Winter 2025 presentation featured inflatable sculptures, graffiti-covered floors, and models styled in milky-eyed prosthetics and spray-painted smiles. Despite the theatrical setting, the clothes remained wearable: distressed denim, oversized puffer jackets, and layered textures came together to form a collection that was as directional as it was grounded.
Spring/Summer 2025 continued this momentum. Martens constructed the runway entirely from over 15 tonnes of recycled denim scraps—a move that was as much about message as it was about material. The clothing itself pushed the envelope, with frayed edges, laser distressing, and denim dyed in electric hues. Sustainability wasn’t just a marketing line; it was stitched into the brand’s identity.
Sustainability with Substance
Diesel’s commitment to sustainability is more than surface-level. The brand has launched a series of initiatives under its “For Responsible Living” banner. Its Rehab Denim uses 100% recycled cotton, water-saving dye techniques, and biodegradable materials. In Tunisia, a partnership with the UN’s Industrial Development Organization transformed 24 tonnes of cutting waste into new yarn—enough to create nearly 90,000 pairs of jeans.
These efforts have not gone unnoticed. Diesel was recently awarded the Circular Economy prize by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, cementing its place as a leader in responsible production practices.
Cultural Cool Factor
Alongside its runway and sustainability efforts, Diesel has also made clever cultural moves to stay in the spotlight. Collaborations with high-profile figures like Damiano David of Måneskin and Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty have introduced the brand to new audiences. At the same time, the 1DR bag has become a cult hit, seen on everyone from Megan Thee Stallion to Normani. On TikTok and Instagram, Diesel has become a go-to brand for Gen Z, who now make up more than a third of its customer base.
Fashion's Full Circle Moment
In many ways, Diesel’s resurgence is a case study in how to rebuild a legacy brand without losing its essence. With Glenn Martens leading the charge, the brand has managed to bring together innovation, cultural relevance, and environmental responsibility in a way that feels entirely modern.
What once seemed like a relic of early-2000s fashion is now one of the most exciting names on the runway—and Diesel, once again, is setting the pace.